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Greenbelt Alliance In the News

January 7, 2010

Urban Outings: Twin Peaks

Wildlife and postcard views

At 922 feet, Twin Peaks is San Francisco's second-highest hill; only Mount Davidson is taller. Called Los Pechos de la Choca (breasts of the Indian maiden) by early Spanish settlers, Twin Peaks is a favorite tourist spot because of its stupendous views. Most visitors just drive up to the lookout, "ooh" and "aah" and head down. More exciting, however, is to take a newly improved trail up to the lookout and then an invigorating hike over the north and south peaks.

Twin Peaks is in the geographic center of the city. The underlying bedrock, chert (also called "red rock"), is formed by layers of radiolaria, microorganisms whose silica skeletons create the layers of rock. The peaks are rich in plant and animal life, most notably the endangered mission blue butterfly.

Make sure to bring a windbreaker as the wind can be fierce.

The hike to the lookout
Start your hike on Crestline Drive, a short street just one block east of Twin Peaks Drive. Here a well-marked trail leads you up the side of the mountain. Look for the trail marker toward the north end of Crestline and start climbing up the wooden steps, turning around frequently to admire views of the bay across the houses. When you come to a guardrail that marks the edge of Twin Peaks Boulevard, turn right to the lookout. No need to walk in traffic; stay outside the guardrail on a dirt trail parallel to the road. You may feel a bit vertiginous when you look down.

The Vista Point lookout is on a little stretch of land called Christmas Tree Point, named for the giant Christmas tree the city lit here every Christmas during the '20s. At the lookout you can enjoy a grand 270-degree panorama of the city spread out like a blanket beneath you including Market Street from the Castro to the Ferry Building. The vista sweeps from the Golden Gate Bridge to Mount Diablo to the Santa Cruz Mountains. Note the huge reservoir to the north, which supplies water to nearby homes and fire stations. There is also a little parking lot and restroom at Vista Point. This is a favorite tourist spot, so be prepared for crowds.

The peaks
When you're through playing tourist, it's time to climb the peaks. Cross the road to the north peak. The wooden steps and dirt path lined with coyote brush ascend steeply. Perched on the very top, you have a 360-degree view, including the Pacific Ocean 3 miles to the west and, on a clear day, the Farallones. Look around to see nutka reed grass and several species of lupine used by the endangered mission blue butterfly. If it's not too windy, rest for a while.

Descend to the other side of the peak, cross the road carefully, and begin ascending the less-crowded south peak for more great views and more solitude. You may see a red-tailed hawk circling overhead or a white-crowned sparrow in the shrubs. On the south-facing slopes, you will find California sagebrush, sticky monkey flower and coastal sage shrubs.

The peaks are home to rabbits, raccoons, salamanders, opossums and possibly foxes and coyotes. Signs along the trail inform you about the mission blue butterfly. Twin Peaks is the only location in San Francisco where you may be lucky enough to view this rare creature.

Getting there
By bus, take the Muni No. 37 to Crestline Drive. There is a stop on Crestline just a few feet from the trailhead. (Tell the driver to let you off by the trailhead.)

By car, from downtown San Francisco, head southwest on Market Street until it becomes Portola Drive. Turn right at Burnett Avenue and then left at Crestline Drive. By car, heading east on Portola Drive, pass Woodside Avenue/O'Shaughnessy Boulevard and turn left at Glenview Drive. Turn left at Burnett Avenue and then left again at Crestline.

Urban Outings are presented by Greenbelt Alliance, the Bay Area's advocate for protecting open spaces and creating vibrant places. To suggest an Urban Outing, contact Gail Todd, tour leader for S.F. City Guides and author of "Lunchtime Walks in Downtown San Francisco." To find out more about Greenbelt Alliance's work, visit growsmartbay area.org.

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